Chestnuts have arrived from China (6,000 LL/kilo), as have pomelos (2,500 LL/kilo), and bags of small white onions.
The new lemon crop is in (2,000 LL/kilo), the lemons are uniform in size and of the same light-green color. They are described as "American" in terms of their seed origin.
Cherry tomatoes have arrived and are 2,000 LL/box.
Customers check the stems of black grapes to determine how fresh they are; green stems equals freshness.
The Somalian bananas are from Costa Rica and carry the Chiquita label.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Showing posts with label The Khudarji Report. Show all posts
Showing posts with label The Khudarji Report. Show all posts
Friday, November 20, 2009
The Khudarji Report 22: 31/10/09
The pistachio season is over; it might fairly be stated that nothing in the market is more missed when its season is over than fresh pistachios.
The local red and yellow apples have started arriving, and they are joined by local Granny Smith apples. When questioned about them, they are described as "American" in terms of their seed origin. A discussion on apples elicits the statement that given two years, the local apple varieties will be replaced by this foreign apple; the reason given is the customer desire for appearance and uniformity over taste or local flavor. A younger shop worker states, "they are all the same!" His older co-worker starts listing for him the local varieties of apple, which are named for their color and their place of origin. A customer chimes in: "yaa haram"--"what a shame".
Small local persimmons have been joined by a larger variety. A large variety of pomegranate has also arrived. One pomegranate fruit is always left cut in half so customers can taste; some prefer sweet, some prefer sour.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
The local red and yellow apples have started arriving, and they are joined by local Granny Smith apples. When questioned about them, they are described as "American" in terms of their seed origin. A discussion on apples elicits the statement that given two years, the local apple varieties will be replaced by this foreign apple; the reason given is the customer desire for appearance and uniformity over taste or local flavor. A younger shop worker states, "they are all the same!" His older co-worker starts listing for him the local varieties of apple, which are named for their color and their place of origin. A customer chimes in: "yaa haram"--"what a shame".
Small local persimmons have been joined by a larger variety. A large variety of pomegranate has also arrived. One pomegranate fruit is always left cut in half so customers can taste; some prefer sweet, some prefer sour.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
The Khudarji Report 21: 24/10/09
Clementines have arrived green and on the sour side. Because of their larger size, many customers refer to them erroneously as (yusuf) ‘afendeh, tangerines.
There are still stone-fruits in the market, as the season advances, their origin moves north and up into the mountains.
Plums are from Turkey.
A tiny green fruit called hanbalas (myrtle) has arrived.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
There are still stone-fruits in the market, as the season advances, their origin moves north and up into the mountains.
Plums are from Turkey.
A tiny green fruit called hanbalas (myrtle) has arrived.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
The Khudarji Report 20: 17/10/09
Lubiyeh (green beans) are in abundant supply and are at 2,500 LL/kilo. Bazela (green peas) have arrived, and are at 3,500 LL/kilo. They are described as "English" in terms of their seed origin.
There are three kinds of dates in the market now: "bilih" (fresh yellow); "kaghlooleh" (large red), and "tamr" (medium-sized and dried).
It is possible to grow date palms from seed. Take the dateseeds from the variety you would like to grow and soak them in water for four days, changing the water each day. At the end of four days, scrub away any remaining date flesh and fine hairs; place each seed in a separate pot of sterilized potting soil. Water as needed; it is important that the soil not go dry. Be patient!
The date palm sends down a tap root first before a sprout will appear; this can take upwards of four to five weeks--the warmer the location of the container, the sooner the germination. After this time, a green shoot will appear, at which point the seedling should be transferred to a larger container.
Mangoes are from Egypt and are at 6,000 LL/kilo.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
There are three kinds of dates in the market now: "bilih" (fresh yellow); "kaghlooleh" (large red), and "tamr" (medium-sized and dried).
It is possible to grow date palms from seed. Take the dateseeds from the variety you would like to grow and soak them in water for four days, changing the water each day. At the end of four days, scrub away any remaining date flesh and fine hairs; place each seed in a separate pot of sterilized potting soil. Water as needed; it is important that the soil not go dry. Be patient!
The date palm sends down a tap root first before a sprout will appear; this can take upwards of four to five weeks--the warmer the location of the container, the sooner the germination. After this time, a green shoot will appear, at which point the seedling should be transferred to a larger container.
Mangoes are from Egypt and are at 6,000 LL/kilo.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
The Khudarji Report 19: 10/10/09
Local garlic has arrived, as has siliq (Swiss chard), late-season corn, and late-season watermelon (on the smaller side).
Green laymoun abu surra (navel oranges) has arrived along with their more-ripe incarnation.
An argument about potatoes (Egyptian vs. Saudi vs. Levantine ends with the shopkeeper stating aloud: "There is no better potato!" referring to the local produce covered in red earth.
The economic crunch expresses itself in requests for produce. Instead of asking for "a kilo of...", for the first time we hear: "I want a thousand lira's worth of...." 1,000 LL does not buy much of anything these days.
There is a dangerous guessing game concerning some of the neighborhood's children; estimates of their ages based on appearance will be anything from two to four years off the mark.
Local workers from Syria, Egypt, and Sudan living in the buildings that they spend the day constructing are likewise malnourished; there is a box of produce in the shop that technically would be referred to as "garbage"; the discussion of the price of the contents of this box is such that the dignity of these men is maintained.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Green laymoun abu surra (navel oranges) has arrived along with their more-ripe incarnation.
An argument about potatoes (Egyptian vs. Saudi vs. Levantine ends with the shopkeeper stating aloud: "There is no better potato!" referring to the local produce covered in red earth.
The economic crunch expresses itself in requests for produce. Instead of asking for "a kilo of...", for the first time we hear: "I want a thousand lira's worth of...." 1,000 LL does not buy much of anything these days.
There is a dangerous guessing game concerning some of the neighborhood's children; estimates of their ages based on appearance will be anything from two to four years off the mark.
Local workers from Syria, Egypt, and Sudan living in the buildings that they spend the day constructing are likewise malnourished; there is a box of produce in the shop that technically would be referred to as "garbage"; the discussion of the price of the contents of this box is such that the dignity of these men is maintained.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Sunday, October 11, 2009
The Khudarji Report 18: 3/10/09
Qashta (custard apple) has arrived; larger fruit is at 10,000 LL/kilo; smaller ones at 8,000 LL.
A customer is asked if she wants Somalian bananas, she replies: "Of course not--who eats Somalian bananas?" As if on cue, a fancy car pulls up and the driver comes in, asking how much the Somalian bananas are.
The baladi bananas are similar to the fresh dates in the shop: They do not go rotten as much as preserve themselves in their own sugar.
Words used to describe produce by those with fancy cars: Deluxe, Extra, Special (French pronunciation).
Words used to describe produce by those without fancy cars: Fresh, Tazza, bil-yom, nZif (clean).
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
A customer is asked if she wants Somalian bananas, she replies: "Of course not--who eats Somalian bananas?" As if on cue, a fancy car pulls up and the driver comes in, asking how much the Somalian bananas are.
The baladi bananas are similar to the fresh dates in the shop: They do not go rotten as much as preserve themselves in their own sugar.
Words used to describe produce by those with fancy cars: Deluxe, Extra, Special (French pronunciation).
Words used to describe produce by those without fancy cars: Fresh, Tazza, bil-yom, nZif (clean).
A shop worker corrects someone who complains that the pomegranates do not look "clean": "No matter how they look on the outside, they are fine. They can last many months, look terrible and dried up, and still be fine."
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Saturday, September 26, 2009
The Khudarji Report 17: 26/9/09
The Khudarji Report 17: 26/9/09
The Syrian soap operas for Ramadan are showing the colonialist French during the Mandate period in all of their attitude and disdainful mannerisms. It thus is rather ironic when French people from the neighborhood come into the shop right at iftar with dogs in tow looking for their salad fixings.
One of the soap operas is sponsored by a restaurant called "Tifah"--Apple.
Id al-Fitr is the one day when the mahal al-khudra is truly closed; much juggling of supply and demand takes place in order to have as little left in the shop as possible. This year was planned well; left in the shop were potatoes, cabbage, hot peppers, onions, and other "less-perishables". A customer asks: "fii fistooq?" The reply comes: "walla, maa fii shii hajjeh; khallis." Her reply, after a pause: "Bravo aleykum!"
The end of Ramadan brought the first real thundershowers with it. The winter rainy season has arrived.
Much of the neighborhood's workers are in transit at Id; those from the shop who stayed in Beirut had iftar at my house before spending the rest of the day in some of the few public spaces that Beirut affords its imported working class: The Corniche (Ramlet al-Baida or Ain al-Mreisseh); the markets of Sabra; the playing fields around Horj Beirut (during off-peak times only).
Monday and Tuesday were devoted to cleaning the store.
Wednesday was the first full day of morning and afternoon souq; it is nice to see the shop full of produce again. hashayish sold out first thing; other items were hard to keep in stock as well.
loubiyeh (green beans) are at 2,500 LL/kilo. When a customer complains about the price, it is explained that once winter comes, the price will hit 12,000 LL/kilo or more. These beans are from the south; by Friday they were down to 2,000 LL/kilo.
After stowing away the afternoon delivery, a shop worker says: "Winter is coming--that's when the good produce comes."
And he is right: Friday saw avocadoes (3,000 LL/kilo), leeks, celery, and persimmons (9,000 LL/box) arriving; spinach is back as well. Cooking onions have arrived, second to the eating onions. Bikfayya, a sweet white-fleshed peach has arrived.
Watermelon is gone.
Produce that some prefer with no seeds: grapes; with small seeds: eggplant.
Large pistachios are referred to as "ras al-kharouf"--lamb's head. They are at 6,000 LL/kilo.
One of the replacement workers for someone traveling to Syria brought back laban from his dayaa. Unlike the industrial Lebanese version of yogurt, it had a true unique taste, with cream risen and an edible skin formed on top. "That's the tastiest part", he comments.
Somalian bananas are from Guatamala; they carry the Chiquita label.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
The Syrian soap operas for Ramadan are showing the colonialist French during the Mandate period in all of their attitude and disdainful mannerisms. It thus is rather ironic when French people from the neighborhood come into the shop right at iftar with dogs in tow looking for their salad fixings.
One of the soap operas is sponsored by a restaurant called "Tifah"--Apple.
Id al-Fitr is the one day when the mahal al-khudra is truly closed; much juggling of supply and demand takes place in order to have as little left in the shop as possible. This year was planned well; left in the shop were potatoes, cabbage, hot peppers, onions, and other "less-perishables". A customer asks: "fii fistooq?" The reply comes: "walla, maa fii shii hajjeh; khallis." Her reply, after a pause: "Bravo aleykum!"
The end of Ramadan brought the first real thundershowers with it. The winter rainy season has arrived.
Much of the neighborhood's workers are in transit at Id; those from the shop who stayed in Beirut had iftar at my house before spending the rest of the day in some of the few public spaces that Beirut affords its imported working class: The Corniche (Ramlet al-Baida or Ain al-Mreisseh); the markets of Sabra; the playing fields around Horj Beirut (during off-peak times only).
Monday and Tuesday were devoted to cleaning the store.
Wednesday was the first full day of morning and afternoon souq; it is nice to see the shop full of produce again. hashayish sold out first thing; other items were hard to keep in stock as well.
loubiyeh (green beans) are at 2,500 LL/kilo. When a customer complains about the price, it is explained that once winter comes, the price will hit 12,000 LL/kilo or more. These beans are from the south; by Friday they were down to 2,000 LL/kilo.
After stowing away the afternoon delivery, a shop worker says: "Winter is coming--that's when the good produce comes."
And he is right: Friday saw avocadoes (3,000 LL/kilo), leeks, celery, and persimmons (9,000 LL/box) arriving; spinach is back as well. Cooking onions have arrived, second to the eating onions. Bikfayya, a sweet white-fleshed peach has arrived.
Watermelon is gone.
Produce that some prefer with no seeds: grapes; with small seeds: eggplant.
Large pistachios are referred to as "ras al-kharouf"--lamb's head. They are at 6,000 LL/kilo.
One of the replacement workers for someone traveling to Syria brought back laban from his dayaa. Unlike the industrial Lebanese version of yogurt, it had a true unique taste, with cream risen and an edible skin formed on top. "That's the tastiest part", he comments.
Somalian bananas are from Guatamala; they carry the Chiquita label.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Thursday, September 24, 2009
The Khudarji Report 16: 19/9/09
The Khudarji Report 16: 19/9/09
To inform a customer that something is sweet, many terms are used, such as “sukkar” (sugar), “aasl” (honey), and “ananas” (pineapple).
Pineapples have returned to the market. They bear the Del Monte label and are from the Phillipines; they are at 10,000 LL/kilo. It is possible to grow a pineapple top: Look for a top that is still green on the inside. Cut off the top with about 2 cm of the fruit; tie a string around the top and hang upside down in a cool, dry, dark place for about five days. Place the top in potting soil up to the base of the leaves and water regularly. New growth should appear in 10 days to two weeks.
Pomegranates are stocked both red, ripe and sweet as well as green, immature and sour.
Kiwis are from New Zealand.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
To inform a customer that something is sweet, many terms are used, such as “sukkar” (sugar), “aasl” (honey), and “ananas” (pineapple).
Pineapples have returned to the market. They bear the Del Monte label and are from the Phillipines; they are at 10,000 LL/kilo. It is possible to grow a pineapple top: Look for a top that is still green on the inside. Cut off the top with about 2 cm of the fruit; tie a string around the top and hang upside down in a cool, dry, dark place for about five days. Place the top in potting soil up to the base of the leaves and water regularly. New growth should appear in 10 days to two weeks.
Pomegranates are stocked both red, ripe and sweet as well as green, immature and sour.
Kiwis are from New Zealand.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Sunday, September 13, 2009
The Khudarji Report 15: 12/9/09
Another quiet week; complaints about Ramadan prices are heard not just in the mahal but everywhere.
Much discussion is given to the current crop of soap operas; beit ij-jidde and baab al-harra are watched by most; nabi Yusuf not by anyone. Many complain about the portrayal of Yusuf by an actor. Imm S. adamantly sticks by her Turkish soaps. When I joke with her that on the Turkish soap operas everyone is always crying, she replies, “ay, bass kwayyess ktiir”.
The difference between Turkish and Syrian soap operas comes down to food. There is no food in Turkish soap operas; whereas no matter what is going on in a Syrian soap opera--siege of the town by the French; fights in the street; death, mayhem, amshakal--there is always food being bought, sold, prepared, cooked, or eaten. Always. The theory in the mahal is this is the real reason everyone in Turkey is crying; they’ve given up their alphabet as well as their food culture.
The French who work and live in the neighborhood refuse to learn any Arabic; a vocabulary of translated fruit and vegetable terms hangs on the wall in order to accomodate them.
The French in their purchases have no problem with the concept of “by the kilo”. The British on the other hand tend to want fixed quantities--two apples; six tomatoes.
Mangoes are currently from Queensland, Australia. They ship green and hard; they are not very tasty.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Much discussion is given to the current crop of soap operas; beit ij-jidde and baab al-harra are watched by most; nabi Yusuf not by anyone. Many complain about the portrayal of Yusuf by an actor. Imm S. adamantly sticks by her Turkish soaps. When I joke with her that on the Turkish soap operas everyone is always crying, she replies, “ay, bass kwayyess ktiir”.
The difference between Turkish and Syrian soap operas comes down to food. There is no food in Turkish soap operas; whereas no matter what is going on in a Syrian soap opera--siege of the town by the French; fights in the street; death, mayhem, amshakal--there is always food being bought, sold, prepared, cooked, or eaten. Always. The theory in the mahal is this is the real reason everyone in Turkey is crying; they’ve given up their alphabet as well as their food culture.
The French who work and live in the neighborhood refuse to learn any Arabic; a vocabulary of translated fruit and vegetable terms hangs on the wall in order to accomodate them.
The French in their purchases have no problem with the concept of “by the kilo”. The British on the other hand tend to want fixed quantities--two apples; six tomatoes.
Mangoes are currently from Queensland, Australia. They ship green and hard; they are not very tasty.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
The Khudarji Report 14: 5/9/09
A quiet week in the mahal; not much to report.
Peach and nectarine season is winding down. A second kind of eating orange has joined the juice orange that has been the only citrus in the store apart from lemons.
Some iftar dishes based on mahal purchases: lubiyeh bi zeit; cucumbers with laban and garlic and mint; stuffed cabbage leaves; fried cauliflower; salad of potatoes with hard boiled egg; stuffed tomatoes and peppers; fattoush; cabbage salad; iceberg salad; mtabbal; french-fried potatoes.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Peach and nectarine season is winding down. A second kind of eating orange has joined the juice orange that has been the only citrus in the store apart from lemons.
Some iftar dishes based on mahal purchases: lubiyeh bi zeit; cucumbers with laban and garlic and mint; stuffed cabbage leaves; fried cauliflower; salad of potatoes with hard boiled egg; stuffed tomatoes and peppers; fattoush; cabbage salad; iceberg salad; mtabbal; french-fried potatoes.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Sunday, August 30, 2009
The Khudarji Report 13: 29/08/09
`Innab (jujube) mottled bright green and brown have started to come in; they are at 5,000 LL for a half-kilo bag.
Guava have started to appear.
Extra amounts of hashaysh--za'tar, beqleh (purslain), na'na' (mint), kazbarah (coriander), baqdunis (parsley), khas (Romaine lettuce), and rocca (rocket)--are brought in for Ramadan.
Iftar in the mahal is a pot-luck affair since the shop cannot afford to close down like other stores on the street. Neighbors bring down food most every night to add to what is prepared in the shop. The televised muezzin is preferred to the one down the street.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Guava have started to appear.
Extra amounts of hashaysh--za'tar, beqleh (purslain), na'na' (mint), kazbarah (coriander), baqdunis (parsley), khas (Romaine lettuce), and rocca (rocket)--are brought in for Ramadan.
Iftar in the mahal is a pot-luck affair since the shop cannot afford to close down like other stores on the street. Neighbors bring down food most every night to add to what is prepared in the shop. The televised muezzin is preferred to the one down the street.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
The Khudarji Report 12: 22/08/09
Rumman (pomegranates) have appeared in the market; they are "helou" (sweet) and not "hamoud" (sour).
Fresh dates have started to arrive.
Pre-Ramadan questions often concern availability of warqat al-'anab, grape leaves. No spinach, hindbeh (dandelion), siliq (Swiss chard), or grape leaves are coming in because they aren't "ndiif" (clean) in the sooq and they don't last in the summer heat.
The pods of fassoulieh (navy beans) tend to rot quickly in the summer, at which point every available hand is employed to shell them. Half-kilo bags of fassoulieh are at 3,000 LL.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Fresh dates have started to arrive.
Pre-Ramadan questions often concern availability of warqat al-'anab, grape leaves. No spinach, hindbeh (dandelion), siliq (Swiss chard), or grape leaves are coming in because they aren't "ndiif" (clean) in the sooq and they don't last in the summer heat.
The pods of fassoulieh (navy beans) tend to rot quickly in the summer, at which point every available hand is employed to shell them. Half-kilo bags of fassoulieh are at 3,000 LL.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
The Khudarji Report 11: 15/08/09
All plums are gone except some large black plums with clear greenish flesh from Turkey. Cherries, toot, and mishmush are likewise gone. At the end of mishmush season, mishmush 'ajameh (unripe) were at 15,000 LL a kilo. Lawz (almonds) are gone.
'anab ahmar (red grapes) have started to appear; there are now two types of white grapes, two types of black, and red grapes in the market. Grape conversations in the mahal often discuss Kefraya as a growing region.
Deliveries to peoples' homes are complicated by the increasingly random nature of electricity outages; elevators and interphones are less and less relied on.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
'anab ahmar (red grapes) have started to appear; there are now two types of white grapes, two types of black, and red grapes in the market. Grape conversations in the mahal often discuss Kefraya as a growing region.
Deliveries to peoples' homes are complicated by the increasingly random nature of electricity outages; elevators and interphones are less and less relied on.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Monday, August 10, 2009
The Khudarji Report 10: 08/08/09
The Khudarji Report 10: 08/08/09
Fistooq Halabi (pistachios) have started to come in; they are at 7,000 LL/kilo.
There is a post-season local banana coming in, but not in large quantities. Somalian bananas are from Ecuador.
Sukleen workers are often thanked with bags of assorted produce.
Prices are being driven up by pre-Ramadan bulk purchases in the souq.
Hashaysh need be bought first thing in the morning; the heat takes its toll by end of day.
The synchronized dance of airborne watermelon being offloaded at delivery time is something to see.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Fistooq Halabi (pistachios) have started to come in; they are at 7,000 LL/kilo.
There is a post-season local banana coming in, but not in large quantities. Somalian bananas are from Ecuador.
Sukleen workers are often thanked with bags of assorted produce.
Prices are being driven up by pre-Ramadan bulk purchases in the souq.
Hashaysh need be bought first thing in the morning; the heat takes its toll by end of day.
The synchronized dance of airborne watermelon being offloaded at delivery time is something to see.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
The Khudarji Report 09: 01/08/09
The Khudarji Report 09: 01/08/09
Green grapes are now joined by black grapes. Green figs are likewise joined by black figs, though only in small quantities. Customers tend to prefer seedless grapes.
Gala apples ("the seed is from Italy") have started to appear.
Kiwi are from Greece.
A kahrabji and his assistant brought in a wire from a "moteur" now that the electricity is out upwards of six hours a day, with random outages added to the scheduled three-hour blackout. The monthly cost is 25 USD. When asked where the moteur is, the answer comes: "maa hadan byaarif"--no one knows.
With no apparent obvious irony, huge black plums from Syria come wrapped in lion wrapping paper.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Green grapes are now joined by black grapes. Green figs are likewise joined by black figs, though only in small quantities. Customers tend to prefer seedless grapes.
Gala apples ("the seed is from Italy") have started to appear.
Kiwi are from Greece.
A kahrabji and his assistant brought in a wire from a "moteur" now that the electricity is out upwards of six hours a day, with random outages added to the scheduled three-hour blackout. The monthly cost is 25 USD. When asked where the moteur is, the answer comes: "maa hadan byaarif"--no one knows.
With no apparent obvious irony, huge black plums from Syria come wrapped in lion wrapping paper.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
The Khudarji Report 08: 25/07/09
The Khudarji Report 08: 25/07/09
Baladeh bananas being done for the season does not prevent desperate customers, some in cars obviously on a quest, asking if there are any local mawz.
The season for peas is likewise finished, as is the local garlic.
There are two types of chaab who treat the market as an open buffet. The first announces everything taken, and makes an effort to pay; he is wished "SaHtein!" The second just takes; he is often cursed.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Baladeh bananas being done for the season does not prevent desperate customers, some in cars obviously on a quest, asking if there are any local mawz.
The season for peas is likewise finished, as is the local garlic.
There are two types of chaab who treat the market as an open buffet. The first announces everything taken, and makes an effort to pay; he is wished "SaHtein!" The second just takes; he is often cursed.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
The Khudarji Report 07: 18/07/09
The Khudarji Report 07: 18/07/09
Green apples have been joined by muwashah apples, so-called for their red streak.
There are four other khudarjiin each two or three streets away. There are men with carts selling apples; trucks with men manning microphones chanting "baTaTa, banadoura, khiyar, kiis Tum"; there are women gatherers crying, "yaa zataa'r!" If a loyal customer needs something that the shop is out of, a trip is made to a neighboring shop to procure it. The cart seller is provided with a calligraphied sign with name and price for his apples to slightly lessen his vocal burden.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Green apples have been joined by muwashah apples, so-called for their red streak.
There are four other khudarjiin each two or three streets away. There are men with carts selling apples; trucks with men manning microphones chanting "baTaTa, banadoura, khiyar, kiis Tum"; there are women gatherers crying, "yaa zataa'r!" If a loyal customer needs something that the shop is out of, a trip is made to a neighboring shop to procure it. The cart seller is provided with a calligraphied sign with name and price for his apples to slightly lessen his vocal burden.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
The Khudarji Report 06
The Khudarji Report 06: 11/07/09
Immature apples have arrived, as have pears; the Lebanese fig crop has started to appear. The new lemon crop has arrived as well.
The successful completion of the baccalaureate is marked by fireworks. A customer laments: "Can't they just kiss each other on the cheek instead?" A worker states: "In Syria, we exchange sweets, that's it."
The local banana season is over. Somalian bananas are currently from Ecuador and carry the Avanti label. Mangoes are from Ghana and are at 10,000 LL/kilo.
A meal: watermelon, halloum cheese, khibz.
Fruits and vegetables set aside as unsellable are negotiable; for the most part this means that those who ask may take what they need.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Immature apples have arrived, as have pears; the Lebanese fig crop has started to appear. The new lemon crop has arrived as well.
The successful completion of the baccalaureate is marked by fireworks. A customer laments: "Can't they just kiss each other on the cheek instead?" A worker states: "In Syria, we exchange sweets, that's it."
The local banana season is over. Somalian bananas are currently from Ecuador and carry the Avanti label. Mangoes are from Ghana and are at 10,000 LL/kilo.
A meal: watermelon, halloum cheese, khibz.
Fruits and vegetables set aside as unsellable are negotiable; for the most part this means that those who ask may take what they need.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Monday, July 6, 2009
The Khudarji Report 05: 4/07/09
'Inab ahmar (red grapes) have arrived, as have 'inab sghir (miniature green grapes); both are baladeh and are at 5,000 LL/kilo.
Somalian bananas are currently from Ecuador and carry the Chiquita label.
The mahal acts as a waystation for electric bills, mail, and cassette tapes shared by maids. It is also a reception area for the neighborhood, with most deliveries on motorbike stopping here first to ask directions.
Peas are at 3,000 LL/kilo. Baqleh (purslane) has gone up to 1,000 LL/bunch.
karaz ahmar (red cherries) are at 6,000 LL/kilo; karaz aswad (black cherries) are at 5,000 LL/kilo.
Valencia oranges are in the market.
Ideally three are required to run the shop; one to man the store, one to help in the store and make deliveries, and one to shop the souq. To get the best produce means going to the souq at 1:00 a.m. This shop manages to run with just two men.
The souq merchants give out stickers to place on fruit once in the market; the word "king" predominates, as in "King of Lebanese watermelon". This has become a standing joke in the neighborhood; I have been dubbed "King of onions" based on the task of removing excess peel, root, and sprouts when adding onions to the bin.
Red nectarines (with orange flesh) have replaced the red and yellow variety.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Somalian bananas are currently from Ecuador and carry the Chiquita label.
The mahal acts as a waystation for electric bills, mail, and cassette tapes shared by maids. It is also a reception area for the neighborhood, with most deliveries on motorbike stopping here first to ask directions.
Peas are at 3,000 LL/kilo. Baqleh (purslane) has gone up to 1,000 LL/bunch.
karaz ahmar (red cherries) are at 6,000 LL/kilo; karaz aswad (black cherries) are at 5,000 LL/kilo.
Valencia oranges are in the market.
Ideally three are required to run the shop; one to man the store, one to help in the store and make deliveries, and one to shop the souq. To get the best produce means going to the souq at 1:00 a.m. This shop manages to run with just two men.
The souq merchants give out stickers to place on fruit once in the market; the word "king" predominates, as in "King of Lebanese watermelon". This has become a standing joke in the neighborhood; I have been dubbed "King of onions" based on the task of removing excess peel, root, and sprouts when adding onions to the bin.
Red nectarines (with orange flesh) have replaced the red and yellow variety.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
The Khudarji Report 04
The Khudarji Report 04: 27/06/09
The summer starts and the market is steady, with little change in terms of new produce.
Syrian figs have arrived. Much larger than their Lebanese counterparts, they are at 4,000 LL/kilo.
Lawz (almonds) are now too hard to bite in half and are at 3,000 LL/kilo.
Granny Smith apples, referred to as "tifah amerkani" ("American" apples), have found a place in the market. They currently are imported from Chile.
Larger lemons are preferred for the making of lemonade. Eggplants are preferred with small seeds.
The army has re-established a presence in the neighborhood. Soldiers' purchases are usually "on the house", although many insist.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
The summer starts and the market is steady, with little change in terms of new produce.
Syrian figs have arrived. Much larger than their Lebanese counterparts, they are at 4,000 LL/kilo.
Lawz (almonds) are now too hard to bite in half and are at 3,000 LL/kilo.
Granny Smith apples, referred to as "tifah amerkani" ("American" apples), have found a place in the market. They currently are imported from Chile.
Larger lemons are preferred for the making of lemonade. Eggplants are preferred with small seeds.
The army has re-established a presence in the neighborhood. Soldiers' purchases are usually "on the house", although many insist.
The Khudarji Report, by Zayd, reflects conditions unique to a neighborhood in central Beirut; the status at your local mahal al-khudra will most likely vary.
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